Choosing a diamond can be a tough process for anyone, but it doesn't need to be hard if you follow simple rules in selection. Knowing these rules is the key to a good purchase. Diamonds are graded in a myriad of ways and price is determined by a number of factors. If you are going to spend a significant amount of money on diamonds it just makes sense to know something about them. Would you spend thousands of dollars on a car you know nothing about? Then why buy a diamond without understanding the basics? Diamonds are not made equal and it is easy to buy an inferior diamond for a large amount of money. Some companies will gladly sell you an inferior diamond and your only protection is knowledge.
When diamonds are cut with mathematical precision, the diamond will exhibit "ideal" symmetry. These diamonds are often called “Ideal Cuts” and produce the perfect balance of brilliance, fire and scintillation. Depending on your own preference, if you want to have a exquisite diamond, make sure you pay extra attention to this area. Through the years technology was developed that allows gemologists and buyers to look at the proportions of diamonds and thus allow the average buyer to make educated decisions before making the purchase. Many of these programs and information are available to the general public and an excellent resource of diamond information is Pricescope.
Diamond cuts come in “Ideal or Excellent”, “Very Good”, “Good”, and “Fair” depending on the grading institute. Other factors of diamond quality are “Polish and Symmetry” and are graded in relatively the same manner but with different wording. Do not overlook the polish or symmetry, because these two combined with the cut result in superior diamonds. Polish is important because it has a direct effect on beauty. Symmetry is important because it describes how the facets are aligned so that light bounces internally at the proper angles to produce brilliance, fire and scintillation
The highest quality cut diamonds produce the effect known as “Hearts and Arrows” and these can be seen when looked at from the top and bottom of the diamond. Ideal cut diamonds exhibit the “arrows” when viewed “face up” through the table looking downward. When the diamond is turned upside down, you can see the “Hearts” effect. An idealscope is the perfect device to view the "hearts and arrow pattern". Some upper-end diamond stores will have this device so you can see this effect.
Keep in mind that there are variations of the “Hearts and Arrows” pattern and each has a different effect on the quality of the diamond. You should always use the cut as a starting point in determining the diamond quality. Pricesope has excellent tools and links to other sites to help you determine the quality of a selected diamond.
Two of the best diamond reports are AGS (American Gemological Society) and GIA (Gemological Institute of America). These organizations have the strictest standards in the industry and each diamond must come up to specific criteria to be granted that certification. Insist on diamond reports from these organizations before you purchase and cross-verify the document with the organization so that you can be assured you have what they say you have.
Clarity – This is what tells you how “clear” a diamond is. Virtually all diamonds have “birth marks”. These birthmarks are called “Inclusions” and various forms of inclusions exist:
Black inclusions
Surface imperfections
Clouds
Feathers
Naturals
Chips
Graining
Knots
Man – Made Drill holes
Enhancements
These imperfections have a direct effect on diamond value. Depending on the amount of imperfections and of what type, the diamond can be graded as to it's clarity, starting from I3 to F. The price of diamonds go up dramatically from Included to Flawless. The categories are
I3, I2 and I1 – Imperfect and eye visible imperfections that are easy to spot.
SI2 and SI1 – Slightly Included. Visible through a 10X loupe. Some SI1 diamonds can be “eye clean”.
VS2 – VS1 - Very Slightly Included. If you want diamonds where the imperfections are very hard to see even with a loupe or scope, this is a good choice.
VVS2 -VVS1 – Very, Very Slightly Included – Even harder to detect with a scope.
IF – Internally Flawless – No internal imperfections
F – Flawless. If you want perfect because your loved one is “perfect” or need it for religious reasons then this a good choice. Be prepared to pay the price.
Carat Weight – Carat weight has a direct effect on the price of a diamond. Diamonds are measured in “carats” and one carat is equal to .20 grams. Points are also a criteria in diamond size. A “one carat” diamond would be in the range of .95 to 1.05 points. Carat weight/Point size determine value, but it is NOT the only factor in determining that value. Many people think that buying big is best. This is wrong. Big is not always best when considering diamonds. Smaller diamonds of superior cut, clarity, color, symmetry and polish will look far superior to badly included large diamonds.
Color - Diamonds are graded by color even though the diamonds are "colorless". Diamond color grades can vary from "D" all the way to "Z", with color beyond "Z" being called "Fancy Diamonds". It is extremely difficult to tell the color grades apart between colorless and near colorless and would require a practiced gemologist to see the difference. It is best to compare the two together to get an opinion before you buy diamonds with two different color ranges.
Colorless
Near Colorless
D, E, F
G, H, I, J
Faint Yellow
Very Light Yellow
K, L, M
N, O, P, Q, R
Light Yellow
S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z
Flourescence - Many diamonds may exhibit flourescence which is a reaction to UV light. Flourescence is also graded in diamonds from very strong to none depending on the diamond reports and organization. Depending on the diamond, flourescence can be attractive or unattractive depending on personal tastes. It is advised that you be careful when selecting diamonds with flourescence and educate yourself on it before selection.
Clarity – This is what tells you how “clear” a diamond is. Virtually all diamonds have “birth marks”. These birthmarks are called “Inclusions” and various forms of inclusions exist:
